We set an alarm today because we had a date with the Worlds Most Beautiful Bookshop or Livraria Lello. It has become quite famous due to its association with Harry Potter (allegedly this is where some of the inspiration for Hogwarts and the moving staircases came from) so you have to book your ticket time in advance – the ticket is basically just a 8 euro discount for any book you purchase at the store. I had seen pictures of the staircase – a bright red and wooden artistic structure that weaves in and out and around itself at the center of the store leading to a gallery style second level. Books line the walls from floor to ceiling. Of course the ceiling is ornate, intricate and beautiful. I’m a sucker for books, I’m a Harry Potter fan despite the author, and before it all I was obsessed with Belle and the Beast’s library. Old bookshop with ladders and walls lined with books for me to own forever? Sign me the F up. I definitely teared up and it’s one “tourist attraction” I’m glad we did.
We were on a roll and hit up the Clerigos Tower next. The tower and church dominates the skyline in our neighborhood which made finding our way home very easy – we definitely were excited to be able to climb the bell tower.
Kids are free under the age of 10 (yay!) so up we went. The route takes you through the museum which was hot as hell and had way too much info to keep our kids interest so I have nothing to share with you. There was a gilded ceiling and altar, a large peg organ, and a way too graphic Jesus statue. For everything else – thank god for Wikipedia. We finally make it to the stairs for the tower after they take some rather silly pictures of you that only the suckers buy at the end. Up we go, up and up, while we realize rather quickly that Zeke is not the biggest fan of being up high. The first look-out he does very reluctantly, clinging to my hand and the wall, while Arthur is trying to find things to scale and hitting any and every seeming opening with full four year old force. Imagine his dismay to realize we had an entire other level to ascend to. Zeke conquered his fear and climbed dutifully to the top, even deigning to smile for a photo as we made our way around the top before heading down.
Oh, and the photos that are only for suckers? We bought two. Traveling with kids: it’s a different ball game.
After our exciting adventures of the morning we decided to simply explore the surrounding streets of our apartment finding more tile walls to admire, a fantastic ice cream shop and some light souvenir shopping before getting ready for our dinner recommendation at Flow courtesy of our inside gal Courtney and her Play Global Travel Agency.
Speaking of – our first two dinners were disasters – tired, jet lagged kids who are not adventurous (or even typical) eaters was far more of a challenge than we anticipated. Not because of lack of options, but because of our youngest’s affinity for announcing – LOUDLY and repetitively – when he dislikes something. Our dinners had been stressful and less than enjoyable. SO. When we were able to secure a reservation at this more upscale place with a fantastic looking menu we had a plan of attack. Step 1: let them use their tablets at dinner (we hadn’t allowed them since the plane) Step 2: feed kids right before our meal not at the restaurant. Step 3: make that meal something they want. Step 4: oh shit they saw a McDonald’s. Step 5: we are giving our kids McDonald’s in Portugal.
Our waitress at Flow was amazing and rather tickled when she asked if the kids needed a menu. And you know what? It was the best meal we’d had since we arrived. Thank you technology, thank you Courtney, and thank you Ronald McDonald, you ruiner of palates.
