Senso-ji Temple

On a particularly rainy day in Tokyo we set out to visit the Senso-ji Temple known for its massive red lantern and striking pagoda. The fact that it was a stones throw away from Tokyo Radio Tower and an interesting structure I like to call “The Meteor” makes it that much more of a tourist draw.

And for good reason. The Senso-ji is Tokyo’s oldest temple, dedicated to the goddess of mercy Kannon after two brothers fished her statue out of a river in year 628.

The feel for this temple is vastly different from Meiji. The street leading up to the entrance (called Nakamise-dori) are lined with vendors and food stalls, everything is decorated to complement the violent shade of orange Senso-ji is painted. In all it feels festive, like a carnival. Thousands of tourists are thronging around. You’re jostled to and fro yet no one seems to mind.

Two demon statues guard the entrance to the temple complex with intimidating glares, wielding weapons and baring their teeth. The effect is hardly diminished by the wire cages that now protect them from overly-curious tourist hands. If you’re entering the temple for no good, these guys are gonna handle business.

Inside there is smoke hanging in the air and an overpowering scent of incense. It’s all coming from a huge cauldron in the middle of the temple complex where visitors place their incense and then pass the waves of pungent smoke over their heads.

Metal shakers (Omikuji) holding fortune sticks are being shaken vigorously on all sides of the complex to determine their fate and scores of said fortunes are tied up onto the Omikuji poles and tree limbs. The same ritual of clapping and bowing is being played out at the top of the main shrine by hundreds of people.

Taken all together and the din is palpable. Considering that the first gate you enter through is known as “Thunder Gate” and the noise seems appropriate.

We took our time and meandered around the vast complex stopping to view the many tiny shrines, images of Buddha and admire the gardens. My favorite was seeing three haiku inscriptions on a stone tablet, apparently inscribed by three haiku masters hundreds of years ago. This was directly across from an equally beautiful statue of an old woman who championed education for girls and started a midwifery practice long ago.

We decided, now that the rain had tapered off, to stay put and hope for a sunset. As the temperatures dropped the crowds thinned out of the main complex. And then the lights turned on.

And the sight was truly magical.